In Search of Komodo Dragons at Plataran Komodo Resort

The Komodo dragon is one of the world’s largest lizards, resembling a giant alligator or some sort of prehistoric reptile. If seeing these creatures is on your bucket list, a stay at Plataran Komodo Resort & Spa, a relaxed 18-unit oceanfront property, can combine an Indonesian beach holiday with this unusual wildlife adventure.

Here’s the scoop:

Getting Here

Since 1980, Komodo dragons have been protected in Indonesia’s Komodo National Park, which encompasses several small islands. While this national park, located between Sumbawa and Flores Islands, seems remote, it’s actually easy to reach as an add-on to a trip to Bali. If you’re already in Bali, as my husband and I were, a quick one-hour flight will take you from Denpasar Airport to Labuan Bajo, the small town on Flores Island that’s the starting point for most excursions into Komodo National Park.

Plataran Komodo Resort & Spa is located on an oceanfront peninsula just outside Labuan Bajo. Resort staff meet arriving guests at the airport for the 15-minute boat transfer to the property. There is a road between town and the hotel, but the boat ride makes your arrival more dramatic, as you cruise out of the harbor, past the fishing boats and several small islands, before arriving at the resort’s dock.

At the hotel lobby, a staff member drapes a woven sash around your neck for a traditional welcome. As we checked in, we enjoyed a tangy tamarind welcome drink and coconut cookies. After you’ve completed the paperwork formalities, you get a five-minute head, neck, and shoulder massage to make sure you start your stay in a properly relaxed state — an amenity I wish all hotels would offer!

Facilities and Services at Plataran Komodo Resort

Guest cottages are arrayed along the beach, in the gardens, and on the hillside overlooking the ocean, with activities, restaurants, and the spa set beachfront.

A swimming pool overlooks the ocean, and a small activity center stocks kayaks, paddle boards, and snorkeling gear for guest use. A compact, standalone glass-walled room facing the ocean right on the beach may be one of the world’s most scenic fitness centers.

The resort’s Padma Spa offers a full range of massage, facials, body wraps and scrubs. During my stay, I was able to do an early morning yoga class out on the pier, with the ocean lapping gently in the background.

Plataran Komodo Dining Options

Plataran Komodo has two on-property restaurants: Xanadu, which is open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, and Atlantis on the Rock, where you can have lunch, drinks, and an evening meal.

Both serve a mix of Indonesian and international dishes. I especially enjoyed the more local options, including a breakfast of rumpu rampe, turmeric rice cooked in coconut milk topped with cassava leaves, papaya blossoms, and crispy dried fish. One morning a staffer was brewing an excellent spiced coffee, similar to a Turkish-style coffee, heated over a burner in a pan full of sand.

Other favorite dishes were a shrimp salad with shredded mango, carrots, and pomelo; mie goreng, a classic noodle stir-fry prepared here with seafood; and nasi tibu, yellow rice cooked in a bamboo leaf and served with white fish and spicy prawns.

The resort also offers a daily light afternoon tea. During our stay, we could choose two savory fried dumplings and two sweet bites, served at Atlantis overlooking the pier and the ocean. My preferred beverage was the fresh ginger tea.

Guest Rooms and Amenities

Plataran Komodo Resort has 18 guest units, with 11 different room categories depending on their size, amenities, and location. All the units are close or directly on the beach, and though many of the exteriors look traditional, the interiors have been updated to be surprisingly contemporary.

Our unit, #109, was a spacious cottage right on the sand, with a beachview terrace out front. One side of the room was furnished with classic teak pieces — an armoire, a desk, and the platform bed, draped with a canopy of netting and decorated with flower petals when we arrived.

The other side of the room was an airy modern living space with a round marble-topped table and two chairs looking out to the beach and a sofa facing the TV and a set of white bookshelves.

This unit, which measured more than 900 square feet, was designated as a “ecotourism sanctuary residence,” which had a unique indoor-outdoor bathroom set behind the bedroom. The enormous bathroom with a massive free-standing stone bathtub and separate rain shower wasn’t exactly outdoors, but it felt that way, with several trees stretching up through the ceiling. Double sinks were set on a long vanity counter, and the Toto-brand toilet with a simple washlet function was tucked into the corner of the room.

While other cottages have more modern baths, we enjoyed the “glamping” feel of our bathroom, which still let us enjoy the air-conditioning and contemporary amenities of the rest of the cottage.

The smaller garden units, set back from the beach, are still spacious, measuring roughly 700 square feet, while the grandest unit, the multi-level Founder’s Home, with two terraces and a private plunge pool, offers more than 1,400 square feet of living space.

All the units include a filtered water dispenser, a coffee/tea maker, a mini bar stocked with a few drinks, batik-print robes, slippers, and a woven beach bag to use while you’re at the resort.

During your stay, your room butler will connect with you via WhatsApp to assist with dining reservations, activities, and any other questions you might have.

Visiting Komodo National Park

While it might be tempting to spend your days at the resort, enjoying the beach, pool, and spa, you’re really here for the Komodo dragons. Numerous operators in Labuan Bajo offer one-day tours to Komodo National Park, but if your budget allows, Plataran Komodo Resort can arrange a trip to the national park on its private yacht.

The resort offers different itineraries depending on the season, but you’ll typically combine a snorkeling adventure with time to spot the Komodo dragons on either Rinca or Komodo Island, which are both part of the national park.

Just don’t get too close to the dragons — these creatures are big!

Rates

Double room rates at Plataran Komodo Resort & Spa start at approximately US$250/night, with breakfast, in the off-season. The property offers a variety of packages including meals, airport transfers, spa treatments, and other experiences; check their website for details.

• Article courtesy of Hotel Scoop
• Hotel feature by Vancouver-based travel, food, and feature writer Carolyn B. Heller. Komodo dragon photo © Alan Albert. Other photos © Carolyn B. Heller. Plataran Komodo Resort & Spa arranged my stay for review purposes.